Sunday, November 23, 2014

How to photograph a reflection in an eye


 | Photography Tips | Portraits | 07/11/2014 00:01am
0 Comments
Discover how to photograph a reflection in an eye ball with this simple step-by-step tutorial!
How to photograph a reflection in an eye
This is a quick and easy photo project that only takes minutes to shoot, but produces amazing results. If you’ve ever taken macro shots of eyes before you’ll know how much fun it is, but you can take things a step further by including a reflection of a local landmark.
Not only will this result in a more visually striking image, but if you choose a landmark that’s got some personal significance to your subject, you’ll end up with something that is also much more personal and intimate, not to mention more interesting.
The trick is to choose a landmark with a very distinctive shape, and ideally to set it against a brighter sky, as this will make for clearer, more recognisable reflections.
If the sky is blue, so much the better. Here we chose to capture a reflection of Beckford’s Towernear Bath.

How to set up your camera to photograph a reflection in an eye

How to photograph a reflection in an eye: step 1
01 Get up close
A macro lens is essential for this project. We used Nikon’s 105mm f/2.8 Micro, which gives one-to-one magnification. This means we could focus close enough to fill the frame with an object the size of our camera’s sensor, which is roughly the size of someone’s eye!
How to photograph a reflection in an eye: step 2
02 Set your aperture
Next, set your camera to aperture-priority mode and decide on an aperture; something like f/13 should do the trick. Just ensure this gives you a shutter speed fast enough to shoot handheld – if it doesn’t, raise the ISO to 200 or 400 to enable a faster shutter speed.

Autofocus point options: what subjects should each be used with?


 | Photography Tips | 17/11/2013 00:01am
0 Comments
Your DSLR offers a variety of autofocus points, which can be used in different ways. But which focus points should you use, and when?
Our quick cheat sheet below explains your different focus point options and when they are most opportune.
We used a Nikon camera for the purposes of this tutorial, but the same principle applies for other brands even though other cameras will have AF systems with a different number of AF points.
Autofocus point options: what subjects should each be used with?
Click the infographic to see the larger version, or drag and drop to your desktop to save.
Auto Area AF: best for snapshots
In Auto Area AF mode, you’re leaving it to the camera to decide what to focus on. It will check all its focus points and choose either the object nearest to the camera or, on later Nikons, any faces the camera detects in the scene. This mode is a good fallback for novices, but the camera will sometimes focus on the wrong thing.
Single-point AF (51 points): best for precision
In single-point AF mode, you pick the focus point yourself. This gives the most control, provided you’ve got time to select the correct point (or you could use the ‘focus lock’ method, see overleaf). Single-point AF is ideal for relatively static shots where you’ve got a little more time to get set up.
Single-point AF (11 points): best for everyday
If you have a camera with a large number of AF points, you have a sophisticated autofocus system at your disposal, but it can take too long to select between them. On Nikons with 39-point or 51-point AF systems, you can restrict the number of AF points to 11 for quick manual focus point selection.
Dynamic area AF (nine points): best for action
Dynamic area AF mode is designed to make the autofocus system more responsive and more reliable for moving subjects. You still select the focus point manually, but the surrounding AF points act as backups to keep the subject in focus if it moves briefly away from your chosen AF point.
Dynamic area AF (21 points): best for erratic action
You can include more AF points in Dynamic area AF mode. Nine points offers greatest accuracy if you can follow your subject in the viewfinder, but for subjects which move more erratically, the 21-point option may be more effective. Try out the options to see which best suits your subjects.
Dynamic area AF (51 points): best for subject tracking
You can use all the camera’s focus points in Dynamic area AF mode. Some models offer 3D tracking, which uses information from multiple AF points to predict your subject’s movement. This suits shots where you want to keep the camera framing the same while shooting a moving subject.

Thursday, November 6, 2014

Waterfall pictures: how to find, set up and shoot moving water

 | Photography Tutorials | Tutorials | 08/10/2014 00:01am
0 Comments
Capture stunning waterfall pictures with our step-by-step guide to exposure, motion blur and more…
Waterfall photography: how to find, set up and shoot moving water
If you’re into landscape photography – and let’s face it, most of us are – late autumn can sometimes be a pretty torrid time of year, partly because of the wet weather, but mostly because the light is just so unpredictable, and what light there is tends to be a bit cold and flat.
Happily, though, there is one landscape subject that’s perfectly suited to being captured in flat, even light, and that’s waterfalls.
Read on to find out why, and to discover the settings you need to capture stunning waterfall pictures and artful images of tumbling cascades…

How to shoot waterfall pictures

How to shoot waterfall pictures: step 1
Step 01: Keep an eye on the weather
Weather is critical, but not for the reasons you might think. Direct sunlight is more of a hindrance than a help, because it casts dark shadows and creates blown highlights in the white water.
As well as being distracting, the contrast between these shadows and highlights makes it impossible to get a balanced exposure.
Rain is also a factor: too much water flowing over your fall will result in images with wide expanses of featureless white water.
What you’re looking for is gaps between the trails of falling water, as this helps to add texture and contrast.
How to shoot waterfall pictures: step 2
Step 02: Get set up
For successful waterfall shots, you’ll need to mount your camera on a sturdy tripod, and to use a remote release to fire the shutter – or your camera’s self-timer function if you don’t have one.
It’s also a good idea to set mirror lock-up right at the beginning of the shoot, to reduce the risk of unwanted vibrations from so-called mirror slap during the long exposures required for waterfall pictures.
Finally, if you’re shooting in daylight, even on cloudy day, you will probably need a filter to enable you to set slower shutter speeds (see Step 05).
How to shoot waterfall pictures: step 3
Step 03: Set the exposure
Once you’ve composed your shot, it’s time to set the exposure. The best way to do this is to set your camera to Manual mode, and then dial in your lens’s smallest aperture (this will probably be f/22 or f/29).
Next, adjust the shutter speed so the exposure level indicator lines up with the ‘0’ on the exposure scale. On an overcast day, this will probably be in the region of 1/4 sec.
As you can see from our example image, this is slow enough to blur the water, but not slow enough to make it appear wispy.
How to shoot waterfall pictures: step 4
Step 04: Evaluate the exposure
To evaluate your initial exposure, check your camera’s histogram view. As you know that the very brightest areas of falling water are actually supposed to be white, with very little texture or detail,you can expose your shot so that your histogram is as far to the right as possible, without the highlights being clipped (i.e. bunched up at the right hand end).
If your histogram is too far to the left (i.e. under-exposed), simply decrease the shutter speed to let in more light; if it’s too far to the right (i.e. over-exposed), increase it to let in less light.
How to shoot waterfall pictures: step 5
Step 05: Slow everything down
If you’ve set your camera’s lowest ISO and your lens’s smallest aperture, the only way to reduce the shutter speed still further is to attach a filter.
A Circular Polariser will reduce the amount of light reaching the sensor by two ‘stops’, so for a correct exposure you’d need to increase the exposure time by two stops (so 1/4 > 1/2 > 1 sec).
To slow things down even more, you’ll need a Neutral Density filter – these come is different strengths, and for every stop of light that’s blocked, you need to double the exposure time.

Master your camera’s autofocus: which AF points to use and when to use them


Using autofocus correctly can solve a great number of the common photography problems you face on a daily basis. But easier said than done, right? Behold the bible on AF points!
In this tutorial we’ll show you everything you need to know to take control of your AF points and nail focus every time you shoot.
Take control of your camera's autofocus: which AF points to use... and when to use them
Focusing has never been so simple. Use any of the Basic Zone shooting modes – Full Auto, Portrait or Landscape – and your camera does all the work for you. It’s almost too easy.
A light press on the shutter button is all you need and, 99 times out of a 100, the camera will focus in a split-second and you’re ready to fire.
So why is it that many shots simply aren’t sharp in the places that matter, such as the eyes in a portrait or the rolling hills of a landscape? The answer lies in the way that the autofocus system actually works.
Left to its own devices, a typical mid-range DSLR uses all of its nine autofocus sensors, which are spread out in a wide array around the image frame.
There’s one AF point at the centre, one both above and below it, another two to the left and right, and a final pair positioned towards the extreme left and right sides of the frame.
More advanced cameras feature an additional six ‘AF Assist’ points, although these, unlike the first nine, can’t be selected manually.
Near and far
To achieve autofocus in your camera’s shooting modes your camera uses information from all nine 
AF points.
It works out the distance of each part of the scene from the camera, chooses the closest object that coincides with an AF point and locks the autofocus at that setting.
This is fine if you want to focus on the nearest object in a scene, but often that’s not the case. 
If you’re shooting a sweeping landscape, for example, you don’t want to focus on the grass in the foreground.
In these cases it’s better to select a Manual AF point. And in close-up or telephoto photography, especially with a large, wide  aperture that reduces the depth of field, pinpoint accuracy becomes even more critical.

Making the most of your range of AF points

Making the most of your range of AF points: Auto select
Auto select
By default, your DSLR uses every AF point in each shooting mode but often you can choose AF points manually. Press the AF Point Selection button at the top-right of the rear of the camera (this will differ by brand and model) and the display will confirm that multi-point Auto Select AF is in use.

Making the most of your range of AF points: manual select
Manual select
To switch from AF Auto Select to Manual Select mode, press the AF Point Selection button as in the previous step, but then press the Set button. The camera will now switch from multi-point selection to using only the central AF point for autofocus. Press the Set button again to revert to multi-point Auto Select.

Making the most of your range of AF points: change the AF point
Change the AF point
You’re not limited to using the central AF point in Manual Select mode. After switching to single-point AF, you can use the arrow keys to switch to any of the other eight AF points. To return to the central AF point, press the Set button again.

Making the most of your range of AF points: AF modes
AF modes
Manual AF point selection works in any of the various AF modes, so you can couple use of selective AF points with One Shot AF for stationary subjects, AI Focus AF for erratic subjects, or AI Servo AF for tracking moving subjects. Select the most appropriate AF mode by pressing the AF arrow key.

When to use your different AF points

How to use AF points creatively: Auto select
Auto Select
When you generally want to focus on the closest object in a scene and you need to react quickly to what’s going on around you, Auto Select is a good option. It saves potentially missing a shot because you’re too busy adjusting AF point selection, and is also good for tracking action.

How to use AF points creatively: Central AF point
Central AF point
The central AF point is the most sensitive and accurate of all, so it’s great for use in very dull or extremely bright lighting conditions, when other AF points can struggle to achieve autofocus. It’s also perfect for when the main object of interest is at the centre of the frame.

How to use AF points creatively: Upper AF point
Upper AF point
When you’re taking a landscape shot and your emphasis is on distant scenery rather than the foreground, select the upper AF point. This stops the camera focusing on spurious foreground objects or areas that happen to coincide with a lower AF point.

How to use AF points creatively: Diagonal AF point
Diagonal AF point
Portraits usually work best when the subject is slightly off-centre in the frame. Shooting in landscape or portrait orientation, choose the appropriate diagonal AF point and focus on one of the subject’s eyes. If the face is at an angle to you, focus on the eye that’s closest.

How to use AF points creatively: Edge AF point
Edge AF point
The AF points positioned at the far left- and right-hand sides of the image frame are very handy when you want to throw foreground areas into soft focus, concentrating on a more distant subject that’s positioned on one side of the frame.


How to choose the best AF point

How to choose the best AF pointWhile for most of us, nine selectable AF points are more than enough, top-end professional cameras, like the Canon EOS-1D X, can have an incredible 61 to choose from. You can even choose multiple AF points in small groups.
Whichever camera you’ve got, knowing which AF point to select can, understandably, be a challenge.
Often it seems easiest is to stick with the central AF point, position it over the object you want to focus on, then lightly press the shutter button to achieve AF.
You can lock the AF setting by holding the shutter button, recompose the shot, then fully press the shutter to take the shot. This often works, but it’s easy to come unstuck.
The main problem with only using the central AF point is that a light reading is also taken, and the exposure value locked, at the same time. If, for example, you focus on an object that’s in shadow, then recompose to include brighter areas, your image will be over-exposed.
Get the point
One answer is to press the AE Lock button after recomposing the image, thereby taking a new light reading, while still holding the shutter button to keep autofocus locked.
But it’s usually easier to pick the AF point that’s closest to the point you want to focus on, 
so any subsequent camera movement will be minimal.
Selecting the most appropriate AF point not only ensures more accurate light metering, but focusing as well, because there’s less camera movement after AF has been locked. Plus, AF point placement is based on the rule of thirds, aiding photo composition.


How to fool your autofocus – and why you should do it

How to fool your autofocus - and why you should do it
Unlike One Shot AF mode, which locks the focus setting as soon as autofocus is achieved, AI Servo AF mode automatically tracks moving targets, from kids and pets at play to racing cars or roaming wildlife, adjusting the focus as necessary up to and including the moment when the shot is taken.
It’s tempting to manually select a single AF point that corresponds to the position of the moving target within the frame, but this often demands an incredibly steady pair of hands and an almost superhuman panning technique.
Switch to the Auto Select AF Point (multi-point) setting when using Canon’s AI Servo AF or AF-C on Nikon and Pentax cameras, and the camera will initially focus and track moving subjects using only the central AF point.
If 
the target strays from the centre of the frame, alternative AF points will be automatically used as necessary, so the camera can continue to track its movement.